When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.
This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.
“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.
It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.
Liam is a seasoned sports analyst with over a decade of experience in odds modeling and betting strategy.